
I started making a version of this after spending too long with the Jerusalem cookbook and becoming slightly obsessed with the idea of baharat. It is a spice blend that shows up constantly in Middle Eastern cooking β sweet, warm, a little smoky β and it does something to lamb that nothing else quite replicates.
These are not delicate meatballs. They are substantial, heavily spiced, and designed to stand up to a bold sauce. The harissa tomato base is the kind of thing I want to eat with a whole loaf of bread torn directly into it.
The recipe is adapted from the spirit of the Jerusalem mixed grill and the braised quail with tamarind β the idea that meat cooked in a deeply spiced, slightly acidic liquid ends up with a completely different character than anything dry-roasted. This is that, but accessible on a Tuesday.
The kofta are formed and seared first, then finished in the sauce. Do not skip the sear β it is the difference between something that tastes home-cooked and something that tastes braised.

Grate the onion on the fine side of a box grater, then squeeze hard in a clean cloth to remove as much moisture as possible β wet onion will make the meatballs fall apart
Combine the lamb mince, grated onion, garlic, baharat, cumin, cinnamon, cayenne, parsley, and salt in a large bowl
Mix firmly with your hands for 2 minutes β more than you think is necessary. The mixture should feel almost paste-like and hold its shape well
Roll into 16 oval kofta, roughly the size of a large egg. Refrigerate for 20 minutes while you start the sauce
Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat until shimmering
Sear the kofta in batches β do not crowd the pan β for about 2 minutes per side until deeply golden on at least two sides. They do not need to be cooked through
Transfer to a plate and set aside. There will be dark bits left in the pan β good, leave them
Reduce heat to medium. Add 1 tbsp olive oil and the diced onion to the same pan. Cook for 8 minutes until soft and starting to catch at the edges
Add sliced garlic and cook 1 minute. Add harissa and cumin β stir and fry for 1 minute until the paste darkens slightly and smells incredible
Pour in both cans of tomatoes and the honey. Season with salt. Stir, scraping up all the dark bits from the bottom, and bring to a simmer
Nestle the seared kofta into the sauce, partially cover, and cook on low heat for 25β30 minutes until the sauce is thick and the kofta are cooked through
Serve straight from the pan with big dollops of labneh or thick Greek yogurt scattered over the top. Tear over fresh mint and flat-leaf parsley. A heavy drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sumac if you have it.
You need bread for this. The sourdough flatbread on this site is the obvious pairing, but any warm flatbread works. Rice with vermicelli underneath is also excellent if you want something more substantial.
for 4 serves
Grate the onion on the fine side of a box grater. Transfer to a clean tea towel and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. This step takes 30 seconds and makes a real difference to how well the kofta hold together.
In a large bowl, combine the lamb mince, grated and squeezed onion, 3 cloves minced garlic, baharat, 1 tsp cumin, cinnamon, cayenne, parsley, and 1 tsp salt. Mix firmly with your hands for 2 minutes until the mixture is uniform and slightly sticky.
Divide the mixture into 16 equal portions and roll each into an oval shape roughly the size of a large egg. Place on a tray, cover, and refrigerate for 20 minutes to firm up.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Sear the kofta in batches for about 2 minutes per side until golden on at least two sides β work in batches rather than crowding the pan. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil to the same pan. Add the diced onion and cook for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until very soft and starting to pick up some colour.
Add the sliced garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant. Add the harissa paste and 1 tsp cumin, stir well, and fry for 1 minute until the paste darkens slightly. Pour in the crushed tomatoes and cherry tomatoes. Add the honey and a generous pinch of salt. Stir, scraping up the dark bits from the bottom of the pan.
Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Nestle the seared kofta into the sauce in a single layer. Partially cover the pan and cook on low heat for 25β30 minutes, turning the kofta once or twice, until the sauce is thick, jammy, and deeply flavoured.
Taste the sauce and adjust salt. Serve straight from the pan, topped with labneh or yogurt, torn fresh mint and parsley, and a drizzle of your best olive oil. Warm flatbread alongside is essential.
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